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Kamis, 07 Agustus 2014

Hainanese Chicken with Rice - A Fresh, Flavorful Meal

Hainanese chicken with rice by Eve Fox, the Garden of Eating, copyright 2014

In my neverending quest to use up the cucumbers that are spilling out of our garden on a daily basis, I remembered this lovely dish that I had not made in many years. It's a variation on a one-pot meal that yields a beautiful, composed salad served with a gingery dipping sauce that is so fresh and flavorful that's rather addictive.

Cucumbers from the garden by Eve Fox, the Garden of Eating, copyright 2014

The recipe hails from the island of Hainan in the South China Sea and variations on it are also popular in Thailand, Malaysia and Singapore. I learned about it via a Mark Bittman column in the New York Times back in 2008.

In addition to being a very tasty way to showcase a bunch of fresh-picked, wonderfully crunchy cucumbers, it's a lovely way to feed a crowd. It earned rave reviews when I made it for dinner recently.

Scallions by Eve Fox, the Garden of Eating, copyright 2014

I love the mix of flavors - ginger, garlic, scallions, cilantro - and the mix of textures - crunchy cucumbers, juicy tomatoes, tender, poached chicken.

Smashing garlic by Eve Fox, the Garden of Eating, copyright 2014

The concept is simple. You start by poaching a whole chicken in a big pot of gingery, garlicky water. Then you take the bird out to cool, leaving you with a big pot of gingery, garlicky chicken stock.

Poached chicken by Eve Fox, the Garden of Eating, copyright 2014

Next you cut up some shallot or onion and garlic and sauté them for a few minutes before adding the rice and sautéing that for a minute or two. Then you add some of that nice, flavorful stock you've created in lieu of water.

Sauteeing basmati rice in onion and peanut oil by Eve Fox, the Garden of Eating, copyright 2014

An important aside: if you have the freezer space, freeze whatever stock you have left over and use it next time you make this dish for even more flavorful chicken and rice. If you keep on doing this you'll end up with a kind of "master stock" that will really knock your socks off.

While the rice is cooking, you shred the meat. This is no small task! It took me about half an hour to pick the meat off my chicken although it was a whopper of a bird - more like a small turkey. By the end of the process, I had chicken under all my fingernails - not the most pleasant sensation. Luckily, I am washable. And I own a nailbrush.

Hainanese chicken with rice by Eve Fox, the Garden of Eating, copyright 2014

Then you whip up a simple but surprisingly addictive sauce of peanut oil, fresh ginger, scallions, a little rice mirin and some soy sauce. I like to do this a little bit in advance to allow some time for the flavors to meld. A note of caution to you: do not skimp on the dipping sauce! It's the key to the whole dish so you do not want to run out of it.

Adding salt to the gingery dipping sauce by Eve Fox, the Garden of Eating, copyright 2014

While the flavors are meeting and greeting over in dipping sauce land, chop up those cucumbers, tomatoes, scallions and cilantro.

Sungold cherry tomatoes by Eve Fox, the Garden of Eating, copyright 2014

Now you're ready to compose your dish. Start by mounding the rice in the center of a large platter, top it with the shredded chicken, then arrange the cucumbers, tomatoes, scallions and cilantro in a sort of edible mandala. Serve your masterpiece with copious amounts of the ginger-scallion dipping sauce.

Hainanese chicken with rice by Eve Fox, the Garden of Eating, copyright 2014

-- print recipe --Hainanese Chicken with Rice lightly adapted from the New York Times
Serves 4-8

Ingredients

* 1 whole (3- to 4-pound) chicken, trimmed of excess fat
* Several cloves smashed garlic, plus 1 teaspoon minced garlic
* Several slices fresh ginger, plus 1 tablespoon minced ginger
* 1/2 cup peanut oil, or neutral oil, like corn or canola
* 3 shallots or a small onion, roughly chopped
* 2 cups long-grain rice (I used an organic white basmati)
* 1/2 cup minced scallions
* 2 cucumbers, sliced (peel them if they're from the supermarket but it's not necessary if they're from a farm or garden near you)
* 2 tomatoes, sliced
* Chopped fresh cilantro leaves
* 2 tablespoons sesame oil
* 2 tsps rice mirin
* 2 tsps soy or tamari sauce

Directions

1. Place the chicken in a large pot along with the smashed garlic, sliced ginger and a generous pinch of salt and cover it with water - just enough to submerge it. Cover it and bring the water to a boil then turn it down to medium and let it simmer for 10 minutes. Turn the heat off and leave the bird in the pot for 45 minutes to an hour, covered, or until it is cooked through. I was dealing with a rather oversized beast of a bird so I just extended all the cooking times by a bit. a large pot of water to a boil and salt it. Remove the chicken from the pot, leaving the stock and let the bird cool to room temperature.

2. Make the dipping sauce using 1/4 cup peanut oil, the minced ginger, half the scallions, a large pinch of salt, the soy sauce and rice mirin. Set it aside.

3. Put 1/4 cup peanut or other neutral oil in a large skillet over medium heat. When it's hot, add the minced garlic and the shallots or onions, cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned, about 4-5 minutes. Add the rice (I did not wash mine and it turned out great) and cook, stirring often for 2-3 minutes. Add 4 cups of the reserved chicken stock and bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to low and cover. Cook for about 20 minutes, until the rice has absorbed all the liquid. Stir in salt and pepper to taste.

4. While the rice is cooking, shred or chop the chicken, discarding the skin. Mound the rice on a large platter and top with the chicken, then decorate with the cucumbers, tomatoes, scallions and cilantro. Sprinkle the sesame oil over it all and serve with the dipping sauce.

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Senin, 28 Juli 2014

Quick& Cooling Asian-Inspired Cucumber Salad

Our cucumber plants are producing a nearly overwhelming number of cukes. (Note to self, next year, we do NOT need six cucumber plants for a family of four.) In the meantime, our pantry shelves are lined with enough bread & butter pickles and sweet relish to last until next summer. And there's a Mason jar full of refrigerator dills chilling in the fridge that we've been dipping into on hot days - enjoying this crunchy, slightly tangy treat as the salty brine drips down our fingers.

Cucumbers growing on the vine by Eve Fox, The Garden of Eating, copyright 2014

But the plants are in high production mode and the cukes keep on coming. Not to mention that we're also getting quite a few cucumbers from our CSA. So I am always on the lookout for new ways to showcase these delightful green monsters. Like this lovely, little cucumber salad which is both refreshing and quick. And does not require me to turn on the stove - a definite bonus with the hot, heavy weather we've been having. Some days, the air is so thick it feels like soup, but not any soup you'd want to eat.

Quick Asian-inspired cucumber salad by Eve Fox, The Garden of Eating, copyright 2014

It's a little bit sweet and a little bit salty. And a lot crunchy. The ingredients are very simple - cucumbers (the fresher the better), a little bit of onion, shallot or scallion, cilantro, rice wine vinegar and olive oil.

Cucumbers, onion and cilantro - ingredients for the Asian-inspired cucumber salad by Eve Fox, The Garden of Eating, copyright 2014

You do a little slicing and dicing, then toss it all together with the vinegar and oil.

Slicing the cucumbers by Eve Fox, The Garden of Eating, copyright 2014

That's it. Done. I like to make this in one of our glass storage containers and just pop it into the fridge to let it stew for a while before I serve it.

Quick Asian-inspired cucumber salad by Eve Fox, The Garden of Eating, copyright 2014

When you're ready, just pull it out of the fridge and serve it up. Crunch, crunch. Yum.

Quick Asian-inspired cucumber salad by Eve Fox, The Garden of Eating, copyright 2014

Asian-Inspired Cucumber Salad
Serves 4-6 as a side

Ingredients

* 3-4 fresh cucumbers, rinsed and ends removed (if they're supermarket cukes, I'd peel them since the skin is usually waxed)
* 1/8 onion, skin removed (feel free to use more if you like onion)
* Handful of fresh cilantro leaves, washed and dried with the stems removed
* 1/3 cup seasoned rice vinegar
* 1/4 cup organic olive oil
* pinch of sesame seeds (optional)

Directions

1. Slice the cucumbers - the thickness is really up to you, depending on how you like 'em, but I'd slice them thinly enough to ensure they can soak up some flavor from the dressing, especially if you're not making this much ahead of time. Slice the onions - these I'd recommend doing very thinly. I like to use my beloved mandoline to quickly produce paper-thin slivers of onion but a knife will also do the job fine. Coarsely chop the cilantro.

2. Toss the sliced vegetables and herbs in a serving bowl with the rice vinegar and the oil. Taste it and adjust the seasoning as needed. Sprinkle with the sesame seeds and serve or put it in the fridge to soak up some flavor for at least half an hour. You can also make this up to a day ahead and store it in the fridge.

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